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luni, 19 septembrie 2011

Travel Postcard: 48 hours in Paris

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An aerial view of the Eiffel Tower in Paris on Bastille Day July 14, 2011. REUTERS/Charles Platiau

An aerial view of the Eiffel Tower in Paris on Bastille Day July 14, 2011.

Credit: Reuters/Charles Platiau

By Alexandria Sage

PARIS | Fri Sep 16, 2011 6:24am EDT

PARIS (Reuters) - The city of glamour, grande cuisine and the ghosts of the guillotined is one of Europe's most beautiful. Welcoming some 28 million visitors a year, Paris offers everything from some of the most famous museums and restaurants in the world to charming cobblestone alleys and boutiques galore.

Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most out of a visit to the French capital. While 48 hours is not nearly enough for this beloved metropolis, it will whet your appetite for your next visit.

FRIDAY

5 p.m. Why not kick off the weekend with a "verre," or glass of wine, as the French do, or perhaps a licorice-flavored pastis aperitif. Paris cafes are the pride of the city, and the most famous are located on the Left Bank. After popping in to the Eglise de Saint-Germain-des-Pres, an ancient abbey with sixth-century roots, enjoy a "pause" at Les Deux Magots or Cafe de Flore. Between the two world wars and immediately after, both cafes welcomed writers, poets and artists from Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway to Albert Camus and Simone de Beauvoir.

8 p.m. Keeping with the literary theme, make your way south to Montparnasse, the neighborhood where intellectuals and artists flocked at the beginning of the 20th century. Splurge at Le Dome, an Art Deco institution featuring platters piled high with oysters and other fresh seafood. And remember the champagne -- after all, it's your first night in Paris.

10 p.m. You're close enough to stroll to the Montparnasse Tower for a spectacular view across the City of Light. The 689-foot office tower, completed in 1973, wins no prizes for beauty -- until you get to viewing area at the top from where, as Parisians like to note, you can no longer see it.

SATURDAY

9 a.m. Hop onto one of Paris' 20,000 Velib city bikes, rentable for a modest fee from docking stations all over the city, and head to Ile de la Cite for a first look at Notre Dame before the crowds descend. Count the saints carved out along the cathedral's facade and notice the gargoyles peering menacingly from the towers of the French Gothic masterpiece.

Nearby are Sainte Chapelle with its unforgettable stained glass windows and La Conciergerie, the former prison where Marie Antoinette spent her last months before meeting her grisly end at the guillotine in 1793.

11:30 a.m. Cross to the right bank via Ile Saint-Louis -- a picturesque island in the Seine where Paris' best ice cream, Berthillon, is sold -- and you find yourself in the Marais. Once swampland, the Marais became the fashionable place to live in the 17th century before falling into disrepair. In the 19th century it was the Jewish quarter and a tasty falafel with grilled eggplant can still be had along the Rue de Rosiers. The Marais is known today for its gay and lesbian nightlife and is home also to trendy boutiques, small art galleries, cafes and museums, including the Picasso Museum and the Musee Carnavalet, which documents the history of Paris.

Enjoy lunch at one of the many cafes in the neighborhood, but don't forget to enjoy a stroll through the Place des Vosges, Paris' oldest plaza, with its stunning brick and stone arched pavilions and luxury residences. Victor Hugo was a resident in the 19th century -- and Dominique Strauss-Kahn is one today.

3 p.m. A quick metro ride from St. Paul station will take you to the Palais Royal across from the Louvre, whose rectangular garden will revive the senses before you tackle France's largest museum and the world's most visited. When it comes to the Louvre, the best strategy is to pick a wing or two -- don't try to do it all. "Courage!," as the French say.

7 a.m. It's time to sit down and enjoy a show. Indeed it's a bit touristy these days, but still -- Le Moulin Rouge cabaret and its showgirls have been entertaining Paris since 1889. A revue and meal doesn't come cheap, but how often these days can you watch a can-can during dinner? Make your way to the base of Montmartre for the show and afterwards enjoy a stroll around the (quite safe) red-light district. Prefer men in wigs instead? Try Cabaret Michou for a drag show.

SUNDAY

9 a.m. It's time to see Paris' best-known landmark at first light. Whether you brave the queues and climb the tower -- by stairs or lift -- or just admire it from the ground, the Eiffel Tower cannot be missed. Across the Seine at Trocadero, an assortment of cafes provide first-rate views.

11 a.m. On the banks of the Seine, hop on a Bateau Mouche for a one-hour cruise along the river, passing such sights as Les Invalides, where Napoleon is buried, the Grand and Petit Palais -- both constructed for the Universal Expo in 1900 -- and the Pont Neuf, Paris' oldest bridge.

1 p.m. Head north from Trocadero to reach the Arc de Triomphe, under whose famous arch have marched scores of victorious armies, including in 1944 when French and American troops were greeted by cheering Parisians. Pay your respects at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, then walk east down the Champs Elysees, a celebrated tree-lined boulevard dominated today by clothing chain stores and tourists. The approach to Place de la Concorde is worth the crowds however. Admire the Luxor Obelisk honoring Pharaoh Ramses II at the center of the plaza, and ignore the traffic as you try to imagine what the square was like at the height of the French Revolution, when the guillotine erected here chopped off hundreds of heads.

3 p.m. All that contemplation of mortality calls for a visit to Pere Lachaise, Paris' biggest and most famous cemetery on the eastern side of the city. Visit the graves of scores of poets, artists, politicians and more, from Moliere and Edith Piaf to Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein and the Doors' Jim Morrison.

Bid adieu to your Paris weekend with a final verre at one of the many cafes around Place Gambetta and plan your next trip.

(Editing by Paul Casciato)


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luni, 12 septembrie 2011

Travel Postcard: 48 Hours in Hobart, Australia

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Fishing boats and pleasure crafts are seen docked at Constitution Dock in Hobart August 28, 2011. REUTERS/Martin Passingham

1 of 8. Fishing boats and pleasure crafts are seen docked at Constitution Dock in Hobart August 28, 2011.

Credit: Reuters/Martin Passingham

By Pauline Askin

HOBART, Australia | Fri Sep 9, 2011 6:25am EDT

HOBART, Australia (Reuters) - Flanked by mountains and the sea, Hobart is Australia's most southern city. In late December through early January each year it becomes a "maritime Mecca," with yachts sailing across the finish line in the grueling Sydney to Hobart race.

The abundance of sailors converging on the city then resembles its early days of white settlement when Hobart, the capital of Tasmania, was a bustling whaling port and former penal colony.

Hobart, a 70-minute flight from Melbourne, is also a base for Antarctic expeditions engaging in research from the deep south, and it's not unusual to see these massive research vessels moored along the quay wall.

Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most out of a 48-hour visit.

FRIDAY

5 p.m. Check into one of Hobart's newest hotels, The Henry Jones Art Hotel, located on 22 Hunter Street, which offers waterfront and mountain views. www.thehenryjones.com

Then head out to soak up the waterfront ambience and stroll over to The Customs House Hotel, just five minutes away. Australia's oldest brewery is in Hobart, so enjoy a drop of local Cascade beer before dinner. www.customshousehotel.com

8 p.m Nearby is Muir's Upper Deck restaurant. Nestled between Victoria and Constitution Docks, the establishment owns its own fishing fleet, guaranteeing a fresh catch daily. www.upperdeck.com.au

Whether diners choose oysters, seafood chowder, the catch of the day or a "fisherman's basket," accompanied by local wine -- perhaps from the Tamar Valley, which has developed a reputation for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir -- the night will be memorable.

SATURDAY

9 a.m. Leave the waterfront views behind and venture through the heart of the city for a wander before popping into The Italian Pantry Cafe-Deli at 34 Federal Street. After enjoying a light breakfast of coffee and Italian pastries, take the time to wander through the Deli with its trove of Italy's finest produce including cheeses, sausages, pasta, sugo and pickled vegetables. The friendly staff are always happy to have a chat. www.italianpantry.com

11 a.m Visit Salamanca Place and immerse yourself in local island culture at the weekly Saturday markets. Visitors may get a glimpse of royalty as Princess Mary of Denmark, a native of Hobart, returns home once in awhile to visit family and has been seen wandering through the markets.

Around 300 stalls cluster between historic sandstone buildings that house galleries and cafes as fishing boats bob in the harbor. It's easy to while away hours watching artisans, listening to street musicians and sampling local products such as honey, cheeses and fresh lavender. Lunch at one of the waterfront cafes or buy something tasty at a stall and eat in nearby Parliament Gardens. www.salamanca.com.au

2 p.m For a unique artistic experience buy a $15 return ferry ticket at the waterfront to visit MONA (Museum of New and Old Art) located on the shores of the Derwent river at the Moorilla Estate winery in nearby Berriedale, just a 45-minute cruise up the river. www.moorilla.com

Surrounded by a vineyard, a cellar door and a micro-brewery, this museum is believed to be Australia's biggest private museum. On display is some of the most provocative contemporary art of recent years, including work by Australia's Greg Taylor and Germany's Julius Popp.

8 p.m Overlooking Salamanca lies the tiny suburb of Battery Point boasting historic homes and colorful garrison cottages dating back to the settlement era. Amble the quaint streets and enjoy dinner at Ristorante Da Angelo, 47 Hamden Road, for a truly authentic Italian experience. A booking is necessary.

Offerings include a pasta dish of marinara, brimming with king prawns, fish, scallops and clams in a rich tomato sauce, or Pollo Paesano Macaroni with chicken, seeded mustard, bacon, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, onions, chili in cream sauce. You can bring your own beer or wine or order from their wide selection of wines, beers and spirits. www.daangelo.com

After your hearty meal, stroll back to your hotel via Salamanca Place and enjoy the weekend social life that spills onto the cobbled streets, creating a jovial party atmosphere.

SUNDAY

8 a.m. The hotel boasts a courtyard adjoining the rooms. If the weather permits, enjoy breakfast outdoors, taking in the views of Mount Wellington.

8.30 a.m. Experience Hobart's wilderness with a fully guided half day (full day optional) tour of Mt Wellington with Mt Wellington Walks. This eco-friendly company will submerge you in a timeless world of ancient forests and windswept peaks 1,270 meters (yards) above sea level. Visitors will get a rare opportunity to see Tasmania as the first settlers saw it in this windy wilderness. www.mtwellingtonwalks.com.au

1 p.m. To begin the wind down before leaving Tasmania's fair shores, grab some fish and chips or fresh oysters from the floating boats near Constitution Docks and rest your weary legs. From this vantage point you may see one or more of the icebreaker research ships bound for Antarctica, including the Australian Antarctic Division's "Aurora Australis" and the French Polar Institute's "l'Astrolabe."

Or, for the more adventurous, perhaps a 90-minute cruise on the Derwent river aboard the Lady Nelson tall ship. Where possible the volunteer crew will encourage passengers to help set sails or take a turn at the helm. For A$15 this is a fantastic way to be part of a bygone era of traditional sailing on the high seas. www.ladynelson.org.au

(Editing by Elaine Lies)


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luni, 5 septembrie 2011

Travel Postcard: 48 hours in Muscat, Oman

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An Omani trainer leads his camel as he prepares for the annual camel race in the Flaija race court in the south of Muscat March 22, 2011.REUTERS/Jamal Saidi

An Omani trainer leads his camel as he prepares for the annual camel race in the Flaija race court in the south of Muscat March 22, 2011.

Credit: Reuters/Jamal Saidi

By Martina Fuchs

MUSCAT | Fri Sep 2, 2011 12:19pm EDT

MUSCAT (Reuters) - The capital of the sultanate of Oman stands in stark contrast to the nearby glitzy trade and business hub of Dubai with no high-rise buildings to obscure the beauty of its Arabesque architecture, ancient fortifications and generous corniche.

Muscat, where men wear spotless white robes, the traditional woven kuma hat and for festive occasions a khanjar (curved traditional dagger) in their belts, and women long abaya cloaks, has preserved much of its rich history and culture.

Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help you get the most out of 48 hours in the oldest independent state in the Arab world, which has been ruled by the al-Said family since 1744.

MONDAY

10 p.m. Spend your first evening enjoying the 1,001 Nights atmosphere and oriental decor of The Chedi hotel(www.ghmhotels.com). Stylish lounges serve non-alcoholic "mocktails," while an infinity pool in a lush green garden, and a stretch of private, sandy shore provide a relaxing atmosphere. Most bungalows at the hotel have scenic views either on the sea or the surrounding mountains. Or try the Shangri-La (www.shangri-la.com), a luxurious three-hotel resort village and signature spa, a drive away from the capital in a desert setting of rugged mountains.

For the lower-budget traveler, go to the Corniche Hotel, just steps away from the fish market in the Mutrah area of town.

TUESDAY

6 a.m. Rise with the sun and dash out to get photographs of the daily catch being delivered to the fish market in the Mutrah port, as well as the scaling, cleaning and weighing of hammour, tuna or octopus then spend time listening to the fish merchants haggling over the bounty of the sea.

8 a.m. After this first photo opportunity, it's time to grab breakfast. Head to the rooftop Al Boom restaurant in the Marina Hotel overlooking the harbor, a few steps across from the fish market. Muscat means "anchorage," and cruise ships as well as fishing boats are berthed at the port around the clock.

10 a.m. Now it's time to take in some culture. Muscat is home to a number of museums, including the Museum of Omani Heritage, the National Museum of Oman, or the Oman Natural History Museum.

Visit the Bait al-Zubair museum (www.baitalzubairmuseum.com) on al-Saidiya Street in Old Muscat, which houses a vast collection of ancient household equipment, costumes and weapons, or the Bait al-Baranda museum (www.baitalbaranda.com) on the seafront in Mutrah, presenting Muscat's ancient life, geology, and folk arts. It is open Saturday to Thursday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m and 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.

12 p.m. From Bait al-Zubair, walk either across the street to the Bait Muzna Gallery for a taste of local art (www.baitmuznagallery.com), or take a refreshment a few steps away at the Muscat Light Restaurant & Coffeeshop, before continuing your walk through Old Muscat to the Sultan's Palace.

1 p.m. A colonnade surrounded by palm trees and royal court buildings leads to the palace, which was built in 1972 but is not open to visitors. It is flanked by the al- Mirani and al-Jalali Forts, both built in the 1580s during the Portuguese occupation of Muscat.

3 p.m. Now head to the Mutrah souk (market), and stop for a quick bite at the street eatery Fastfood'n'Juice Center to the left of the entrance to grab a shwarma (sandwich) and a cup of sweet chai (tea).

5 p.m. Explore the Mutrah souk, open daily from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday to Thursday and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Friday, a market housed under a roof with a labyrinth of small alleyways where everything from khanjars to silverwork, gold jewelry, textiles, spices and incense is sold. Make sure you've polished your haggling skills.

7 p.m. Enjoy an energy-boosting pomegranate, banana or mango fruit juice at al-Ahli Coffeeshop in the heart of the souk.

8 p.m. You must be hungry by now. Restaurants serving Omani dishes are rare, but try the cuisine of the Bin Ateeq in the al-Khuwair area, serving harees, made from wheat mixed with meat, or maqbous, a rice dish with saffron cooked over spicy meat. For dessert, have halwa, traditional Omani sweets, containing eggs, sugar, saffron, cardamom, and nuts.

Alcohol is only available in selected restaurants and luxury hotels, but usually quite expensive. Omani qahwa (coffee) is delicious however, mixed with cardamom powder and often accompanied with dates.

If you travel during the holy Muslim month of Ramadan, refrain from eating, drinking or smoking in public during daylight hours.

10 p.m. Muscat's nightlife is rather thin, but you can have a drink at the Trader Vic's in the InterContinental hotel for cocktails, or at the romantic John Barry Bar with live piano music in the Grand Hyatt. If you are lucky, you can catch a concert of the Royal Oman Symphony Orchestra (here).

If all of this doesn't tempt you, take a stroll along the corniche to enjoy the harbor scenery.

WEDNESDAY

You may want to venture out of the city for the day, consider the options of: diving (www.omandivecenter.com), birdwatching (www.birdsoman.com), horse-riding, dolphin and whale-watching or off-road wadi-bashing in the desert dunes.

Camel races are also held on Fridays from October to April, but check with the Directorate-General for Camel Affairs first when the race is taking place.

8 a.m. Otherwise, start your day with breakfast in the Bedouin-cultured garden of the Kargeen Caffe (www.kargeencaffe.com) in Madinat Qaboos.

9 a.m. Take a taxi to the sprawling Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, which is able to accommodate up to 20,000 worshippers. Construction of the white marble mosque with ceramic floral murals and a Swarovski crystal chandelier started in 1995 and was completed in 2001. The mosque is open daily for Muslims, and for non-Muslims Monday to Thursday from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. Visitors must wear long sleeves, trousers or long skirts, and women must cover their hair.

10 a.m. A nice place to see old silver ornaments, copper crafts and samples of Omani ships is the National Museum. It is open Saturday to Thursday from 9.30 a.m. - 1.30 p.m.

1 p.m. Have lunch at the classroom restaurant of the National Hospitality Institute, tucked away in the Wadi al-Kabir, where students train to become chefs and offer an international menu. Be aware that a "training eye" camera is installed in the restaurant. (www.nhioman.com/contactus.html)

3 p.m. You may have spotted them from a distance the previous day. Now it's time to climb up to the al-Jalali and al-Mirani Forts, accessible only via a steep step. Get access permission from the Heritage Ministry at the Museum of Omani Heritage. The twin forts once served as bastions to defend Muscat's harbor. The Portuguese bolstered the already existing fortifications during their occupation in the 1580s.

5 p.m. Bring home an Arabian gift from Bateel (www.bateel.com), a gourmet dates company which offers filled Segai dates with caramelized pecan or date chocolates with nougat pistachio, a silver khanjar (curved traditional dagger)from the souk costing between 30 rials ($77.9) to 500 rials, or a kuma, a handmade woven hat which costs around 30 rials.

If you have bigger pockets, purchase a fragrance from luxury perfume house Amouage (www.amouage.com), produced from frankincense, musk and other oriental ingredients.

7 p.m. Before packing your bags, enjoy a dinner at Mumtaz Mahal ("beautiful palace"), an Indian restaurant located on the hill behind Qurum Natural Park.

The best time to visit Muscat is between November and March, when maximum temperatures range between 25 and 35 degrees Celsius. The Shamal, a dust-laden wind, blows from March to August.

($1 = 0.385 Omani Rials)

(Reporting by Martina Fuchs, editing by Paul Casciato)


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